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Hawaiian Music:
more than a mele

What music comes to mind when you think of the island of Hawaii? The warm sounds of an ukulele, melodious steel guitar, the hula show at a luau, or a romantic trio at an oceanfront lounge? Hawaii’s music is as diverse and eclectic as the people who live here. It draws upon global influences and deep cultural roots, and it continues to expand, as local musicians share the music with Japan, China and other nations around the world.

Natural beginnings

HTA | Tor Johnson

Before people came, winds rattled branches, hummed and whistled in the air. Birds sang in the trees. Rain drummed on stones and echoed in streams. And when people arrived, the earliest Polynesian canoe wayfinders brought their music with them, collected in the songs (mele), chants (oli), and dances (hula).

“Find a place where you can hear the ipu (gourd drum) and chants. If possible, go to see hula kahiko (ancient form of hula),” says music love Francois Arlhac of Waikoloa. “For example, the Hawaiian Cultural Center of Hamakua has a weekly storytelling program, with oli, at the Kings’ Shops at Waikoloa, at 5 p.m. on Tursday. And the last Friday of the month, they bring their halau (hula troup).” www.hccoh.org

IHVB | Lehua Waipa AhNee

For a closer look at truly traditional Hawaiian music and dance, there is no greater celebration than the Merrie Monarch Festival, held annually in Hilo (this year April 21-27). www.merriemonarch.com.

Proficiency in both auana (modern) and kahiko forms of hula is expertly demonstrated by skilled hula halau (hula troupes) from Hawaii and beyond. The rules are stringent, and kahiko (traditional) performances are expected to be authentic in style, costume, language, use of implements, and more.

No guitars, pianos, horns or other melodic instruments are allowed; only the traditional rhythm implements, most of which are handmade by the dancers themselves, under the watchful eye of their kumu hula (teacher). On the Merrie Monach stage, viewers may see pahu, drums; ipu, gourds; uliuli, rattles; kalaau, sticks; iliili, stone pebbles; papa hehi, wooden foot treadles; and other instruments.

Traditional instruments

In North Kohala, the art of making Polynesian rhythm instruments is still practiced at Vea Polynesian Gifts. Master craftsman Ika Vea taught himself to create drums and hula implements in the 1970s by placing an ad in the local paper offering to “repair broken hula implements.” Because he could not find someone to teach him, this gave him the perfect opportunity to deconstruct broken implements, learn how they were made in the process, then make the repair. Today, his family helps continue the tradition and welcomes patrons to their shop in Kapaau.

ika-vea-in-his-shop
Ika Vea | Courtesy Photo
HTA | Tor Johnson

Hymns (himeni)

In 1820, the first Christian missionaries arrive in Kona, bringing with them new instruments and harmonies. Hawaii’s first Christian church, Mokuaikaua Church on Alii Drive in Historic Kailua Village still welcomes visitors to Sunday services every week. At 11 a.m., a traditional service features the Ohana Choir, followed by a History Talk at 12 noon. The historic sanctuary built from stone and coral is open 7:30 a.m. – 5:30 p.m. daily. Visitors are welcome.

Although the missionary movement was responsible for subverting some hula and other non-Christian cultural practices, it introduced a written language. This allowed for songs, stories and dances to be preserved for future generations in the Hawaiian language. The missionaries also brought new instruments to the islands: guitar, piano, organ, fiddle, flute, bass viola, and others.

“Hawaiian music is [also] truly associated with the sounds of the ukulele and with the strains of the steel guitar; along with the high-pitched vocals of the leo kiekie, the Hawaiian falsetto.”

Paniolo music

In the decade after the first missionaries arrived, the Spanish-Mexican cowboys came to Hawaii Island at the request of Kamehameha III. Hired to help manage an out-of-control wild cattle population, the paniolo (from “Espanol”) carried guitars with their boots and saddles, and another new style of music came to Hawaii. As their music evolved, skilled guitarists experiemented with different tunings of their strings. This grew into an exciting new genre called slack key (ki hoalu).

“The lilting sounds of the ki hoalu were and are still reminiscent and associated with the hearty and colorful paniolo, the Hawaiian cowboy,” says Danny Akaka, cultural historian for Mauna Lani Auberge Resorts Collection Hawaii for over 30 years. “Hawaiian music is [also] truly associated with the sounds of the ukulele and with the strains of the steel guitar; along with the high-pitched vocals of the leo kiekie, the Hawaiian falsetto.”

Ukulele

By the mid-19th Century, sugar cane plantations began establishing a new economy and way of life for Hawaii. Immigrant workers arrived in waves – from China, Japan, Korea, the Philippines, Puerto Rico, and Portugal – bringing their respective languages, cuisines, cultures, and music. No other ethnic instrument was as quickly embraced as the little “braguinha” guitar from Portugal.

It came in 1879 with a group of Portuguese craftsmen, who broke into lively music at the dock, delighting the crowd with their nimble fingers and rapid strumming. Hawaii fell in love with what they nicknamed ukulele (jumping flea, describing the players’ technique), and it was in instant demand. By 1888, four of the original five men had their own ukulele shops.

Ukulele music is easy to find on Hawaii Island. Shopping centers offer free lessons. Clubs meet in community centers. Friends and family jam to gether at farmers markets and backyard barbecues. Stores island wide carry a selection of instruments from beginning models to exquisite handcrafted ukulele made from local woods by island luthiers. One such shop is Hawaiian Ukulele and Guitars, with locations in Hilo, Kona, and on the Kohala Coast (Queens’ MarketPlace).

Kahilu Theatre

Kahilu Theatre, in upcountry Waimea, was created by sixth-generation Parker Ranch heir Richard Smart. The theatre hosts quality concerts and performances throughout the year, including some of Hawaii’s brightest stars.

Roy Sakuma at Ukulele Festival
Roy Sakuma at Ukulele Festival | Carlton
HTA | Tor Johnson
Allan Akaka and Students at the Hawaii Steel Guitar Festival
Allan Akaka and Students at the Hawaii Steel Guitar Festival | Courtesy Photo

Steel Guitar

Another Hawaii instrument with roots in the islands' plantation era is the steel guitar. Invented in 1885 by Joseph Kekuku who found a railroad spike as he walked along the tracks. He put that spike in his pocket, went home, and started experimenting with the spike – sliding it up and down the strings of his guitar. The sound inspired him to develop a new kind of stringed instrument.

Visitor destination

The visitor industry played a role in perpetuating and promoting Hawaiian music. Many years ago, at the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel, Maryann Lim, a cook who loved to sing while she worked, was “discovered” by her managers. They asked if she would like to sing for guests. Maryann and husband Elmer, a Parker Ranch cowboy, had been backyard entertainers for years, and jumped at the opportunity. In the years to come, as their children grew up and joined in, the Lim Family became a benchmark of Hawaiian music. Learn more about this talented family here.

“The diversity of music here is wonderful. What visitors should know is that often-free community events are the best places to catch a selection of Hawaii’s favorite artists – Hawaiian music and otherwise,” says Tim Bostock, director, Tim Bostock Productions.

Looking forward

As Hawaii’s musicians travel more and more to teach and perform in Japan and beyond, new musical influences continue coming into play, bringing sounds of rock, reggae, rap, jazz, soul, pop, country and nostalgia to Hawaii Island.

One such example is the Kohala band “Kahulanui” (the big dance), formed by musician Lolena Naipo, whose grandfather was a member of the Royal Hawaiian Band. The nine-piece Hawaiian swing band inclues a full horn section and high energy that has won awards and entertained audiences across the country. A long way from ipu (gourd) and chant, Kahulanui nevertheless shares a spirited, vibrant essence of island aloha in an old-meets-new, uptempo way.

Waimea resident Charles Michael Brotman is owner of Palm Records and an award-winning producer, songwriter, and entertainer. He’s helping plant the seeds of success for future musicians via the Hawaii Songwriting Festival, a three-day learning and networking annual event that takes place in June.

Hawaiian music is here for anyone who comes to listen and takes the time to seek it out. And, whether it’s flavored with blues, jazz, swing, country, rock and roll, reggae, or something else, there is a musician playing somewhere almost every night of the week.

Charles Michael Brotman | Photo by Sarah Anderson
hawaii-songwriting-festival
Hawaii Songwriting Festival | Courtesy Photo

Music Events

Monthly

Twilight at Kalahuipuaa
A “talk story” event taking place once a month on the Saturday closest to the full moon – live music too!

March

Waikoloa Ukulele Festival
Free event with all-day concerts, free lessons and demos, merchandise, workshops, and music fellowship

May

Honokaa Western Week
A series of events include a boot-scootin’ block party with dancing in the street, country western music

June

Hawaii Songwriting Festival
Three-day learning and networking event – great opportunity for musicians and songwriters

September

KWXX Hoolaulea
Featuring 20+ of Hawaii’s favorite bands on four stages

November

Ukulele and Slack Key Guitar Festival
Annual concert series spotlights some of Hawaii’s best!

December

Hawaii Island Steel Guitar Festival
A three-day event featuring concerts, workshops, learning exhibits and kani ka pila (jam sessions)

Various Dates

Hawaii Performing Arts Festival
Bringing together some of the most talented musicians from across the world

Live Music

Days, times are subject to change. Please check with the venue.

Kona

Huggo’s on the Rocks
Daily, live music from 6 – 10 p.m.; on Fridays and Saturdays, music starts at 3 p.m.

Gertrude’s Jazz Bar & Restaurant
Nightly except Monday, live jazz and more (Latin, blues, tango, open mic), 6:30 p.m.; Hawaiian Swing on Sundays at 5 p.m.

Kohala Coast

Lava Lava Beach Club
2:15 - 4:15 p.m. and 5 - 9 p.m., live Hawaiian music and hula at Anaehoomalu Bay

Kings’ Shops
Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday evenings

Queens’ Markeplace
Monday and Friday, 6 – 7 p.m. – hula performances; third Saturdays – mini concerts

The Shops at Mauna Lani
Weekly outdoor “dinner and show,” order to-go items from the shops’ restaurants and enjoy musical performances

North Kohala

Bamboo Restaurant
Nightly except Monday, usually Hawaiian music, sometimes hula, slack key and more

Hilo

Hilo Town Tavern
Tuesday, Kani ka pila, 6:30 – 9:30 p.m.; live music most nights

Hilo Burger Joint
Live music daily, 6:30 – 9:30 p.m.

Puna

Uncle Robert’s Awa Bar
Live Hawaiian music most nights. On Wedesdayʻs Farmerʻs Market and special kani ka pila

Volcano Village

Lava Rock Cafe
Tuesday, Wednesday, and Saturday, 5 – 8:30 p.m.

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